Scooter Glossary

This glossary is written in simple, easy-to-understand language. Jump to: Parts & Setup · Riding & Condition · Wear & Warranty

Parts & Setup

Term Explanation
Axle The metal pin that goes through the wheel, holding it onto the scooter.
Bars / Handlebars What you hold to steer—like mini bicycle handlebars at the front.
Bungs / Bar Ends The protective caps that plug into the very ends of the handlebars. They protect the rider (and the bars) if the scooter tips over and stop the grips from getting torn.
Brakes That metal flap on the back wheel you step on to slow or stop—like putting on the brakes.
Clamps Small metal “grippers” that lock the handlebars and deck together so nothing wobbles. These are located at the bottom of the bar to hold the bar onto the fork.
Compression System Little components that keep the steering tight but smooth—so the bars don’t flop around.
Deck The flat board you stand on—like a sturdy little platform under your feet.
Deck Block A small support under the deck—it adds strength and stops the platform from breaking.
Forks The metal arms that hold the front wheel and connect it to the handlebars.
Grip Tape The sandpaper-like layer on the deck—stops your feet from slipping when riding.
Grips The rubbery sleeves you actually hold on the handlebars (not the little caps at the ends). They’re usually about 180 mm long to give comfy, non-slip control.
Head Tube The scooter’s “neck”—the chunky bit of the deck where the handlebars sit and turn.
Headset The bearings inside the scooter’s “neck” that let the handlebars turn smoothly.
Integrated Headset The smooth, clean version—everything sits tucked inside the deck’s head tube.
Non‑Integrated Headset The older setup—parts stick out a bit instead of being hidden inside the tube.
Shim A short metal cylinder that slides over the top of the head tube before the top bolt goes on. Then the handlebar slips over the shim, and the clamp tightens it all together so nothing wobbles.
Top Bolt / Headset Preload Bolt The big screw on top that you tighten just right so the handlebars don’t wobble or stick—like tuning it to be comfy.
Wheels These are usually 100, 110, or 120 mm in diameter. You would generally replace the wheel on your scooter with the same size so that the brake still lines up and works properly.
Bung (Compression Plug) A little insert inside the headset top—keeping everything snug and stopping dust or water getting in.

Riding & Condition

Term Explanation
Pro Scooter / Stunt Scooter A tougher kick‑scooter made for tricks, flips, jumps—even skate‑park stunts.  Pro scooter handlebars don't adjust - this ensures comfortable, stable smooth riding and also makes it stronger for landing tricks. 
Dialled When the scooter is all set up nicely—nothing wobbles, parts are just-right and comfy.

Wear & Warranty

Term Explanation
Wheel Flat Spotting When the wheel gets a flat patch due to aggressive braking at speed causing the wheel to lock and the PU to grind flat. It makes riding bumpy—and is usually not covered under warranty.
Chunking When bits of wheel rubber chip off after rough or sideways landings or hitting curbs.
De‑hubbing When the squishy outer bit of the wheel starts peeling away from the hard inner core—sometimes covered if it happens early in use.
Wear & Tear (Consumables) Things like grips, grip tape, bearings, bungs, brakes, and wheels wear out and need replacing—they're generally not covered unless faulty on arrival.
Misuse / Incorrect Installation If damage is caused by rough treatment, wrong installation, or using wrong tools, it’s not covered by warranty.