The Ultimate Parent’s Guide to Scooters
KEY
1.Bar 2.Clamp 3.Headset 4.Front Deck Block 5.Fork 6.Front Wheel 7.Front Axle 8.Grips 9.Top Bolt & Shim 10.Headtube 11.Forged Downtime 12.Brake 13.Rear Wheel 14.Rear Axle 15.Rear Deck Blocks 16.Deck 17.Grip Tape 18.Front Deck Block
Buying your child their first scooter can feel a bit like walking into another world. Suddenly you’re hearing words like dialled, headset, and shim — and you’re left wondering, “Is this even English?” Don’t worry. We’ve put together a simple guide that explains all the scooter lingo in plain language. By the end, you’ll know your deck from your dialled, and your kids will think you’ve been riding for years.
Parts & Setup: The Anatomy of a Scooter
Deck – The big flat board your rider stands on. If the scooter were a house, this would be the foundation.
Grip Tape – Feels a bit like sandpaper stuck to the deck. Its job is simple: keep sneakers from slipping off mid-trick.
Bars / Handlebars – Exactly what you think—just like on a bike.
Grips – The soft rubber sleeves your rider actually holds onto. They’re about the length of your hand and a half, comfy to hold, and stop sweaty palms from sliding.
Bungs / Bar Ends – Little protective caps that plug into the ends of the bars. They protect both the scooter and the rider’s hands if the scooter tips over.
Forks – The strong arms that hold the front wheel.
Axle – The skinny but mighty rod that runs through the wheel to hold it on tight.
Brakes – A simple flap at the back. Step on it and the scooter slows down.
Head Tube – The chunky “neck” at the front of the deck where the bars connect.
Headset – Small bearings inside the head tube that let the bars turn smoothly.
– Integrated Headset: All tucked in neatly, smoother and cleaner looking.
– Non-Integrated Headset: The older style that sticks out a little.
Clamps – Metal “grippers” that squeeze everything together so the bars don’t wobble. Located at the bottom of the bar to hold the bar onto the fork
Compression System – The hidden parts that keep the front end tight but still easy to turn.
Shim – A short metal cylinder that slides over the head tube before the bars go on. The clamp squeezes it all together so nothing wobbles.
Top Bolt (Headset Bolt) – The “just tight enough” screw at the top. Too loose and the bars wobble. Too tight and they won’t move. Get it right and the scooter is dialled.
Deck Block – A little support piece under the deck that adds extra strength.
Wheels – Usually 100, 110, or 120 mm in diameter. Always replace with the same size so the brake still lines up properly.
Riding & Condition: The Words Riders Use
Pro Scooter / Stunt Scooter – Not the fold-up scooter you had as a kid. These are built tough for skate parks, ramps, and tricks. Pro scooters handlebars don't adjust to ensure comfortable, stable smooth riding with no annoying rattles.
Dialled – Scooter slang for “set up perfectly.” When everything is tight, smooth, and ready to ride, kids will proudly say, “My scooter’s dialled.”
Wear & Warranty: What You Should Expect
Wheel Flat Spotting – Caused by skidding. The wheel develops a flat patch, making rides bumpy. Not covered under warranty.
Chunking – When bits of wheel rubber chip off after rough or sideways landings or hitting curbs.
De-hubbing – When the rubber outer layer of the wheel separates from the hard centre. If it happens early, it may be covered under warranty.
Wear & Tear (Consumables) – Grips, grip tape, bearings, brakes, wheels, bar ends… these are all consumables. Just like tyres on a car, they’re expected to wear out and be replaced.
Misuse / Incorrect Installation – If damage is caused by rough handling, incorrect installation, or using the wrong tools, it won’t be covered under warranty.
Scooter talk doesn’t need to be overwhelming. With this guide, you’ll understand exactly what your kids are talking about and what to look for when buying parts or replacements.
At Madd Gear, we’ve been building scooters for over 20 years—engineered to handle tricks, tumbles, and everything in between.